Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Me gusta Tegucigalpa, me gustas tu

So for semana santa, sonya and I hid in trujillo, actually outside trujillo where we could camp at casa kiwi, this beautiful ploace on the beach. For the business, they asked us to work and we made a little money for the few days we served drinks and helped in the kitchen. Swimming, for probably or last time in the carribean, it was cooler than normal (a huge relief) and we saw a ton of small jellyfish. When the week came to an end we bolted for the capitol of Honduras, Tegucigalpa (what a mouthful) where we had a CS host waiting for us. She was a principal of a very exclusive bilingual school but a very cool 40 year old and authority figure. We went to some national museums with old christian art and contemporary honduran artists, a great mix, and beautiful discoveries. The second day we went to this giant Jesus statue on the hillside in a paek called Picacho, and went to this inhumane, pitiful zoo.
We left Tegucigalpa for Managua on the Tica bus, a very nicve airconditioned luxury bus (although the cheapest direct bus)... i think someone told me that it was for the poor people... wrong... totally gringoed out.
But we stayed with a couchsurfer just outside of Managua on the highway towards Masaya. He was a Swedish guy who just loved to live the good life. Every morning we had bagels with cheese fresh veggies, yogurt and tropical fruit. OJ and coffee, and this was ¨just what was around¨. He was the nicest guy and even came into the not so tourist friendly Managua with us for a day. One day we ventured to a smaller town called Masaya where we checked out its famous markets and mingled with the locals.
On our day in Managua with Tomas, we went to the nacional palace, in a very sketchy part of town where 10 year olds sniff glue and smoke cigarettes and hassle any outsiders. If I was alone I would have loved to be dropped in this neighborhood with no cash, just ten rolls of film and my camera, with a notebook and pen... it would be the poorest Ive ever seen a place and the visuals would describe a collapsing people... it could be very moving.
Any how, we left Managua yesterday and are in Leon, about an hour north and it has a nice mix of tourists and many locals, it is a pretty large town. Right now we are staying in a cute family owned hotel with a real homey vibed to the vibrantly painted rooms. Its a community kitchen so we are saving big cash.. Today we went to a really good museum called Fundacion Ortiz, with a ton of work. Some was classic European painters including Matisse and Picasso but alot of modern Nica adn other C.A. art that was really stunning and had the quality and diversity of many DF museums. Its back to the Pacific coast in a couple oif days to maybe surf but mainly soak up the rays.

Monday, April 6, 2009

And Im on my way, idont know where im goin, but im on my way

So in the last two weeks we have covered more ground than the last two months!! We went to Copan, a town close to the ruins and guatemala border. We have discovered baleadas, a honduran breakfast much like a quesadilla but with more beans and phenomenal fluffy tortillas. While in Copan we visited a butterfly-orchid sanctuary where ii saw incredible caterpillars and flutterbys that i have never seen. On this same day i finally got a haircut, but not just any haircut, a honduran haircut, costing about $1.50. What made it so ditinct was the hair styles on posters with an extreme 80s theme, the buzzers and TV were all powered by a number of car batteries. And when he went to do the buzzing trim real close around the ears and on the back of my neck, he used an old school manual, single blade butterfly razor, which was far more accurate... gotta get me one of them. The next day we went to the ruins, which were not as impressive structurally as others, but offered a great wildlife scene. When we arrived there were about 20 macaw parrots just floating around, getting fed bananas.
One thing about honduras, and it is the same in Guatemala, just not to this degree, is that everyone carries a gun, the police have M16 or automatic shot guns, and many citizens just through a 9mm or a revolver in their belt, no holdster or anything, just cowboy up. So i took advantage of this photo op and have some great photos of this guy flaunting his gun, and even pointing it straight at the camera as i snapped the shutter.
After Copan, we hung out in Tela for one night, but do to prices and a constantly multiplying honduran tourist population, we left. It reminded us of Guayabitos on semana santa, loud, swealtering, and dirty. On the day we left, it monsoon style rained for about a half an hour, flooding the streets and drenching the beach mauraders.
After Tela, we headed to La Ceiba where we would wait until our time to go to UTILA.
La Ceiba isn't woth writing about, but we stayed for a few days. When we finally went to Utila, because we were waiting on the availability of our CouchSurfing host, it cost $22 each a boat ride, and we took two backpack fulls of food to avoid the price hikes. And the entire time that we were there, we didn't eat in a single restaurant. We were hosted by a very eccentric Salvadorean guy, who was good company most of the time, but were also joined by 1 to 6 other couchsurfers at any given time. Sonya got a job while on the island, and I was gonna look but wanting to stick to our plan and not lolly gag, we moved on, not to mention housing and cooking in a kitchen would have been a little tricky. So after a loong chicken bus ride yesterday, we are in the town, or rather, a litlle bit outside the town of Trujillo, staying in a place where we may work a little bit to help us pay the bills. We have a gorgeous beach, which isn't as warm aS OTHER CARRIBEAN WATERS, AND BELIEVE ME, IT IS A RELIEF TO ACTUALLY cool off IN THE WATER RATHER THAN STEPPING INto bath water.
Next its Tegucigalpa and on to Nicaragua.